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Jewelry
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Jewelry is universal form of self-expression. Jewelry, in all its beauty is more than mere decoration. Through out the ages, Jewelry has spoken of the passion, the riches, and the power of its wearers. A ring glinting on a woman’s finger can speak everything that is difficult to put into words. It has a Language of its own.
Ornaments, such as bracelets, necklaces, or rings, made of precious metals set with gems or imitation gems. Objects designed for the adornment of the body, usually made of gold, silver, or platinum, often with precious or semiprecious stones and such organic substances as pearls, coral, and amber. Over the centuries it came to be a sign of social or religious rank. In Renaissance Italy, jewelry making reached the status of a fine art; many Italian sculptors trained as goldsmiths. From the 17th century the decorative function of jewelry again came to the fore, overshadowing its symbolic significance. By the 19th century, industrialization brought jewelry within the reach of the middle class
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Precious Metals
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A Word precious metal refers to metals valued in jewelry. Gold, Platinum, and Silver are precious three noble metals used in jewelry. Jewelry metals come in warm and cool colors One of the first things that we admire about precious metals is the way they reflect the light. Glitter of gems and metals in reflected light is called luster. . Beauty of jewelry items surface has a lot to do with how well it reflects the light. All these three metals have a quality of being hammered or rolled in to sheets without breaking called Malleable. All three precious metals are also ductile meaning that they can be formed in any shape.
Gold: Gold is the most popular metal in jewelry due to its warm yellow color .It possess beautiful luster. Out of three precious metals, Gold is the most malleable and ductile
Silver: Polished pure silver shines more brightly than any other metal on earth. It reflects more than 90 % of the visible light back to eyes. Silver Jewelry can be an affordable alternative for customer who likes white metal look
Platinum: Platinum is the heaviest metal and posses beautiful luster. You can easily experience the weight and substantial feel of platinum jewelery. Over time, polished platinum’s luster can grow softer and richer and archive subtle glow called “patina”
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Alloy
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Alloy is mixture of two or more metals. Over the centuries, people have found that silver work better in jewelry than precious metal alone.
In their pure for, Gold, Platinum and silver shows very narrow range of color but people learned to mix these metals with other metals to create exciting colors.
Gold Alloy: Pure gold is melted with other metals to form karat gold alloys. Karat gold has different properties than pure gold
In US no alloy with gold content lower than 10 K can be sold as Karat gold.
Jewelry containing less than 41.7 % of gold can not be sold ad gold Jewelry
“Ingredients of typical gold “
14 K Yellow: Gold, Copper, Silver, and Zink
14 K Yellow: Gold, Copper, Silver, and Zink
Green: Gold, Copper, Silver (Amount of silver increased) and Zink
Rose (Pink): Gold, Copper, Silver (Amount of copper increased), and Zink
White: Gold, palladium Copper, Zink
Karats And Their Equivalents
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Carat gold only
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10K
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14K
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18K
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24K
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% OF PRECIOUS METAL
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41.7%
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58.3%
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75%
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100%
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Parts per thousand
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417
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583
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750
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1000
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Variable equivalent
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10 parts Gold,
14 parts other metal
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14 parts Gold,
10 parts other metal
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18 parts Gold,
6 parts other metal
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24 parts Gold,
No other metal metal
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Pictorial equivalent
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Platinum Alloy: Discovery of the other platinum group metal (Iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium, and ruthenium) played a big part in the development of platinum jewelry manufacturing techniques. Mixing of platinum with different member of its groups creates new alloys that can be harder than platinum alone.
Silver Alloy: In order to bear the name “ Silver” in United States of America Silver alloys must contain at least 92.5 % pure silver. Sterling silver it self is a most popular alloy in the world
Sterling Silver-: 92.5 % Silver and 7.5 % copper
Coin Silver -: 90 % pure Silver and 10 % Copper
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Types of Jewelry
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The most universal forms of jewelry are the necklaces, (An ornament worn around the neck). Bracelet, ring, pin, and earring. Gold, platinum and silver has usually been the preferred metal. Now a days Silver and stainless steel is becoming more popular. Jewelry has been decorated by engraving, embossing, etching, and filigree, and by application of enamel, mosaic, gems, semiprecious stones, and glass.
Ring: In Simple terms, a ring is a circular band worn on the finger. But Rings are perhaps the most meaningful of all jewelry. Rings have served dozens of important purpose. They have expressed Friendship, Promised, Engagement and marriage. Rings are as meaningful as ever. Perhaps that’s why they are the most popular type of jewelry in the world
Solitaire rings typically showcase the beauty of a single gem. That Gem is often a diamond. Although colored stones and cultured pearls are also used in solitaires. The Gem is usually dominant feature of a solitaire ring. Solitaire ring is mostly used as Engagement ring.
The wedding ring in a wedding set can be a plain or decorated band of gold or platinum. Or it can be set with diamond or other gemstone. Often it is in matching with engagement solitaire ring. Matching ensemble of an engagement ring, woman’s wedding ring and man’s wedding band is sometimes called “Trio” and sets of matching engagement and wedding band are called Bridal sets or “Duos”
Anniversary bands have become popular as a gift from husband to wife on a wedding anniversary. Anniversary bands are set with a continuous row of diamond or other gems of same size and cut. The gems can extend all the way or only partway around the band.
Rings that have gems set all the way round the ring are called eternity ring because circle is a traditional symbol of eternity.
Diamond is not the only Gem used in the rings. Now a days Colored stone ring very popular. Many jewelry designers use colored stone in contrasting colors and shapes to create dramatic jewelry styles. Colored stone can take the starring role in high priced, one of a kind Jewelry.
Earring: Earring is an ornament that is worn on the ear. An earring comes in many types. They can be attached in a variety of ways, including with clips or screw backs that grip the ear lobe or with wires that pass through it.
Hoop earring is one of the oldest styles. The popular version is a curved tubing or solid wire or band that dangles in a loop-like arc from the earlobe.
Unlike hoops, stud earrings don’t dangle, but nestle against the earlobe. Stud earrings are not always set with gem but many style features with prong or Bezel set gems or diamond or Pearls. Diamond studs are the most popular gift especially for wedding, birthdays or anniversary.
Drop earring is an earring with one or more dangling ornament. It became very popular in 17th century. Today drop earrings are still popular but simpler in design.
Necklaces and Pendants: Necklaces come in myriad forms and styles, and pendants of endless variety often add spice to their charm. In recent years, pearl strands and diamond solitaire pendants have won a place close to the hearts of jewelry lovers. Whatever style you choose to wear, necklaces invite others to step closer to your magic spell.
Chains: A typical chain is a series of linked loops of metal wire. In old days hands made chains. Today machine made and hand made, both chains are available. Gold Chain is popular with men as well as women.
The curb link chain is a jewelry store staple. The curb chain style consists of oval links that are each twisted about 85 degrees and flattened so that chain will lie flat. Curb link chains are strong yet flexible.
The fingaro chain is a fashionable version of the curb link. The fingaro chain ‘s principal links are elongated. Between each pair of long curb link is a group of three short curb links.
Rope chain is classic that offer a substantial, opulent look, especially in larger widths. These chains can be solid or hollow. Rope chain is usually made up of oval links. Two or more links are attached to each adjacent link.
Bracelets: Bracelet is an ornament worn around the wrist. Although arm bracelets and ankle bracelet are available Bracelets are among the earliest adornments. Bracelets have been popular since the time of the Roman Empire.
The diamond tennis bracelet is one of the most popular bracelet styles. It’s a flexible band of faceted, usually round diamonds of matching size set in a line that encircles the wrist. It got its name after a famous tennis player, Chris Evert, who attracted pubic attention to it.
Cuffs and bangles are example of rigid bracelets. Cuffs are wide or narrow C shaped bands that fit over the wrist or arm. It was more popular in ancient time.
A bangle can be circle or oval shape, Most bangles are made of precious metals but also can be fashioned from Jadeite, nephrite or made from combination of other material. Bangle can either slip on or open and close by means of hinge and clasp mechanisms.
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Types of Settings
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Prong:The prong setting is the most common setting style specially. Prong is a narrow metal support that helps hold Gem in the mounting. Prongs are usually used in sets of four or six per gem. It is also known as “Claws”
Bid: In the bid setting, Gems are recessed in to holes drilled in the mountings. Special too is used to push up piece of surrounding metal to hold each stone in place . Next using another tool with small cup at the end, jeweler shapes the jagged metal piece in to rounded “meads”.
Pav’e: (pav – Vay) is a type of bead setting. In the pav’e setting, gemstones are placed close together in a honeycomb pattern.
Considerable skill is required to create a quality pav’e setting. The setter secures the gems in a surface pierced with multiple openings. Then with special tools small piece of metal is pushed up to secure Gem. The effect of complete Pav’e setting is of a sparkling field of Gem.
Channel: a channel setting features one or more “ Grooved “ Channels. The channel grips the gemstone, which are laid to edge in row. The most durable channel setting also has reinforcing bars along the undersides of the channel.
Invisible: Invisible setting is the most difficult setting out of all. In an invisible setting, each diamond or colored stone is grooved just below girdle. The groove allows the gem to slide over wire support. The result is a smooth, rich, seamless field of gem.
Bezel: Bezel is a thin metal strip that wraps around a gem to hold it in place. It looks like a gleaming belt or collar. Properly done, a bezel setting forms a secure setting for the gem. Traditionally bezels setting have been used to hold cabochon.
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Types of Finish
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When we inspect any jewelry closely, we might find that it is exquisitely designed and substantial. But it first attracts our gaze and invites our touch largely because of crucial final step in crafting it. That final act is called Finishing.
Here are some common finish types:
Bark:wavy, almost parallel lines resembling tree bark
Diamond Cut: Angled “facets” cut in to metal with rotating, diamond tipped tool
Florentine:Cross-hatched engraved lines
Hammered:Bright, irregular surface texture
High polish:Bright, Smooth, Mirror-like finish
Matte:Velvety, Frosted, Grainy finish
Satin:muted, soft, lustrous finish
 Bark
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 Diamond cut
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 Florentine
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 Hammered
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 High poish
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 Matte
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 Satin
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