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Jewelry is universal form of self-expression. Jewelry, in all
its beauty is more than mere decoration. Through out the ages,
Jewelry has spoken of the passion, the riches, and the power
of its wearers. A ring glinting on a woman’s finger can speak
everything that is difficult to put into words. It has a
Language of its own.
Ornaments, such as bracelets, necklaces, or rings, made of
precious metals set with gems or imitation gems. Objects
designed for the adornment of the body, usually made of gold,
silver, or platinum, often with precious or semiprecious
stones and such organic substances as pearls, coral, and
amber. Over the centuries it came to be a sign of social or
religious rank. In Renaissance Italy, jewelry making reached
the status of a fine art; many Italian sculptors trained as
goldsmiths. From the 17th century the decorative function of
jewelry again came to the fore, overshadowing its symbolic
significance. By the 19th century, industrialization brought
jewelry within the reach of the middle class
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| Precious Metals |
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A Word precious metal
refers to metals valued in jewelry. Gold, Platinum, and Silver
are precious three noble metals used in jewelry. Jewelry
metals come in warm and cool colors One of the first things
that we admire about precious metals is the way they reflect
the light. Glitter of gems and metals in reflected light is
called luster. . Beauty of jewelry items surface has a lot to
do with how well it reflects the light. All these three metals
have a quality of being hammered or rolled in to sheets
without breaking called Malleable. All three precious metals
are also ductile meaning that they can be formed in any shape.
Gold: Gold is the most popular metal in
jewelry due to its warm yellow color .It possess beautiful
luster. Out of three precious metals, Gold is the most
malleable and ductile
Silver: Polished pure silver shines more
brightly than any other metal on earth. It reflects more than
90 % of the visible light back to eyes. Silver Jewelry can be
an affordable alternative for customer who likes white metal
look
Platinum: Platinum is the heaviest metal
and posses beautiful luster. You can easily experience the
weight and substantial feel of platinum jewelery. Over time,
polished platinum’s luster can grow softer and richer and
archive subtle glow called “patina”
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| Alloy |
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Alloy is mixture of
two or more metals. Over the centuries, people have found that
silver work better in jewelry than precious metal alone. In
their pure for, Gold, Platinum and silver shows very narrow
range of color but people learned to mix these metals with
other metals to create exciting colors.
Gold Alloy: Pure gold is melted with
other metals to form karat gold alloys. Karat gold has
different properties than pure gold In US no alloy with gold
content lower than 10 K can be sold as Karat gold. Jewelry
containing less than 41.7 % of gold can not be sold ad gold
Jewelry
“Ingredients of
typical gold “ 14 K Yellow: Gold, Copper, Silver,
and Zink 14 K Yellow: Gold, Copper, Silver, and
Zink Green: Gold, Copper, Silver (Amount of silver
increased) and Zink Rose (Pink): Gold, Copper, Silver
(Amount of copper increased), and Zink White: Gold,
palladium Copper, Zink
Karats And Their
Equivalents
| Carat gold only
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10K |
14K |
18K |
24K |
| % OF PRECIOUS
METAL |
41.7% |
58.3% |
75% |
100% |
| Parts per
thousand |
417 |
583 |
750 |
1000 |
| Variable
equivalent |
10 parts Gold, 14 parts other metal |
14 parts Gold, 10 parts other metal |
18 parts Gold, 6 parts other metal |
24 parts Gold, No other metal metal
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| Pictorial
equivalent |
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Platinum Alloy: Discovery of the other
platinum group metal (Iridium, osmium, palladium, rhodium, and
ruthenium) played a big part in the development of platinum
jewelry manufacturing techniques. Mixing of platinum with
different member of its groups creates new alloys that can be
harder than platinum alone.
Silver Alloy: In order to bear the name “
Silver” in United States of America Silver alloys must contain
at least 92.5 % pure silver. Sterling silver it self is a most
popular alloy in the world Sterling Silver-: 92.5 % Silver
and 7.5 % copper Coin Silver -: 90 % pure Silver and 10 %
Copper
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| Types of Jewelry |
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The most universal
forms of jewelry are the necklaces, (An ornament worn around
the neck). Bracelet, ring, pin, and earring. Gold, platinum
and silver has usually been the preferred metal. Now a days
Silver and stainless steel is becoming more popular. Jewelry
has been decorated by engraving, embossing, etching, and
filigree, and by application of enamel, mosaic, gems,
semiprecious stones, and glass.
Ring: In Simple terms, a ring is a
circular band worn on the finger. But Rings are perhaps the
most meaningful of all jewelry. Rings have served dozens of
important purpose. They have expressed Friendship, Promised,
Engagement and marriage. Rings are as meaningful as ever.
Perhaps that’s why they are the most popular type of jewelry
in the world
Solitaire rings typically showcase the beauty of a single gem.
That Gem is often a diamond. Although colored stones and
cultured pearls are also used in solitaires. The Gem is
usually dominant feature of a solitaire ring. Solitaire ring
is mostly used as Engagement ring.
The
wedding ring in a wedding set can be a plain or decorated band
of gold or platinum. Or it can be set with diamond or other
gemstone. Often it is in matching with engagement solitaire
ring. Matching ensemble of an engagement ring, woman’s wedding
ring and man’s wedding band is sometimes called “Trio” and
sets of matching engagement and wedding band are called Bridal
sets or “Duos”
Anniversary bands have become popular as a gift from husband
to wife on a wedding anniversary. Anniversary bands are set
with a continuous row of diamond or other gems of same size
and cut. The gems can extend all the way or only partway
around the band.
Rings
that have gems set all the way round the ring are called
eternity ring because circle is a traditional symbol of
eternity.
Diamond is not the only Gem used in the rings. Now a days
Colored stone ring very popular. Many jewelry designers use
colored stone in contrasting colors and shapes to create
dramatic jewelry styles. Colored stone can take the starring
role in high priced, one of a kind Jewelry.
Earring: Earring is an ornament
that is worn on the ear. An earring comes in many types. They
can be attached in a variety of ways, including with clips or
screw backs that grip the ear lobe or with wires that pass
through it.
Hoop
earring is one of the oldest styles. The popular version is a
curved tubing or solid wire or band that dangles in a
loop-like arc from the earlobe.
Unlike
hoops, stud earrings don’t dangle, but nestle against the
earlobe. Stud earrings are not always set with gem but many
style features with prong or Bezel set gems or diamond or
Pearls. Diamond studs are the most popular gift especially for
wedding, birthdays or anniversary.
Drop
earring is an earring with one or more dangling ornament. It
became very popular in 17th century. Today drop earrings are
still popular but simpler in design.
Necklaces and Pendants: Necklaces
come in myriad forms and styles, and pendants of endless
variety often add spice to their charm. In recent years, pearl
strands and diamond solitaire pendants have won a place close
to the hearts of jewelry lovers. Whatever style you choose to
wear, necklaces invite others to step closer to your magic
spell.
Chains: A typical chain is a series
of linked loops of metal wire. In old days hands made chains.
Today machine made and hand made, both chains are available.
Gold Chain is popular with men as well as women.
The
curb link chain is a jewelry store staple. The curb chain
style consists of oval links that are each twisted about 85
degrees and flattened so that chain will lie flat. Curb link
chains are strong yet flexible.
The
fingaro chain is a fashionable version of the curb link. The
fingaro chain ‘s principal links are elongated. Between each
pair of long curb link is a group of three short curb links.
Rope
chain is classic that offer a substantial, opulent look,
especially in larger widths. These chains can be solid or
hollow. Rope chain is usually made up of oval links. Two or
more links are attached to each adjacent link.
Bracelets: Bracelet is an ornament
worn around the wrist. Although arm bracelets and ankle
bracelet are available Bracelets are among the earliest
adornments. Bracelets have been popular since the time of the
Roman Empire.
The
diamond tennis bracelet is one of the most popular bracelet
styles. It’s a flexible band of faceted, usually round
diamonds of matching size set in a line that encircles the
wrist. It got its name after a famous tennis player, Chris
Evert, who attracted pubic attention to it.
Cuffs
and bangles are example of rigid bracelets. Cuffs are wide or
narrow C shaped bands that fit over the wrist or arm. It was
more popular in ancient time.
A
bangle can be circle or oval shape, Most bangles are made of
precious metals but also can be fashioned from Jadeite,
nephrite or made from combination of other material. Bangle
can either slip on or open and close by means of hinge and
clasp mechanisms.
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| Types of Settings |
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Prong:The prong setting is the most
common setting style specially. Prong is a narrow metal
support that helps hold Gem in the mounting. Prongs are
usually used in sets of four or six per gem. It is also known
as “Claws”
Bid: In the bid setting, Gems are
recessed in to holes drilled in the mountings. Special too is
used to push up piece of surrounding metal to hold each stone
in place . Next using another tool with small cup at the end,
jeweler shapes the jagged metal piece in to rounded “meads”.
Pav’e: (pav – Vay) is a type of bead
setting. In the pav’e setting, gemstones are placed close
together in a honeycomb pattern. Considerable skill is
required to create a quality pav’e setting. The setter secures
the gems in a surface pierced with multiple openings. Then
with special tools small piece of metal is pushed up to secure
Gem. The effect of complete Pav’e setting is of a sparkling
field of Gem.
Channel: a channel setting features one
or more “ Grooved “ Channels. The channel grips the gemstone,
which are laid to edge in row. The most durable channel
setting also has reinforcing bars along the undersides of the
channel.
Invisible: Invisible setting is the most
difficult setting out of all. In an invisible setting, each
diamond or colored stone is grooved just below girdle. The
groove allows the gem to slide over wire support. The result
is a smooth, rich, seamless field of gem.
Bezel: Bezel is a thin metal strip that
wraps around a gem to hold it in place. It looks like a
gleaming belt or collar. Properly done, a bezel setting forms
a secure setting for the gem. Traditionally bezels setting
have been used to hold cabochon.
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| Types of Finish |
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When we inspect
any jewelry closely, we might find that it is
exquisitely designed and substantial. But it first
attracts our gaze and invites our touch largely because
of crucial final step in crafting it. That final act is
called Finishing. Here are some common finish types:
Bark:wavy, almost parallel
lines resembling tree bark
Diamond Cut: Angled “facets”
cut in to metal with rotating, diamond tipped tool
Florentine:Cross-hatched
engraved lines
Hammered:Bright, irregular
surface texture
High polish:Bright, Smooth,
Mirror-like finish
Matte:Velvety, Frosted,
Grainy finish
Satin:muted, soft, lustrous
finish
 Bark |
 Diamond cut |
 Florentine |
 Hammered |
 High poish |
 Matte |
 Satin
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